Please read these instructions thoroughly before attempting to install your Patriot Fence. While installation of the fence is relatively easy, this instruction sheet should eliminate any guess work. If you have any questions or problems installing the fence, please call us weekdays at 1-800-344-2242.

Materials Needed:

• Stakes
• String
• Measuring Tape
• Post Hole Digger
• Level
• Concrete Mix
• 5/16” socket, 9/64”and 3/8” Drill Bits and Drivers
• Reciprocating, Band and/or Hack Saw

Before You Begin Installing Your Fence:

• Establish your fence line by staking out the area to be enclosed and attaching a guide string to the stakes.
  Make sure the fence is set back from the property line as required by local codes.
• Gates and sections should be installed so that the bottom of the fence is about 2” above ground level.
  This will allow the grass under the fence to be easily trimmed.
• When you need less than a full section to complete a line of fence, cut it to size.

Caution: If it is necessary to cut panels to fit into the fence line or for gates, all cut pieces must be seal-coated with zinc rich primer (known as “Cold Galvanizing”) and then painted with Jerith’s custom touch-up paint. This two step process should also be done in any place where the finish has been damaged. Failure to follow this procedure may void the warranty!

• Gate posts should be spaced 6” wider than the desired gate width for single gates, and 10” wider for double gates. (i.e.” a 48” single gate needs a 54” opening between gate posts, a 10 foot double needs a 10’ 10” opening.)
• For RETROFIT SYSTEM, remove old Fence, Top Rail, and fittings. Check and correct all posts for Plumb and Straight. Remove all rust, scale, and dirt. Apply sleeves, or cold galvanize, prime and paint all surfaces. Refer to #4 below.

Fence Installation (for method details see page 4):

1. For TRADITIONAL OR PASSBY Install all terminal posts (end, gate and corners) first. (The maximum opening for a single gate is 6’ 6”, and 12’ 10” for a double gate.) Dig the post holes and set the posts into them. Fill the holes with concrete and tamp down around each post so the concrete is about 2” below ground level. Any gates will be attached after the concrete has set.
   Caution: The proper operation of the gate depends upon the correct installation of the gate posts. Make certain that they are plumb.
2. After the terminal posts are set, begin setting the line posts. Post spacings are measured from center to center of the posts. For the Traditional System, those measurements should be 72” for 2” line posts and 71 ½” for 1 ½” line posts. For the Passby System, 96” centers are recommended although the spacing is not as critical (some applications may allow for 10’ centers but those requiring greater structural strength may require 6’ centers). Line posts for the Passby System should be offset enough to allow line of fence to passby them but end in the center of terminals. Heights of line posts should be 1-2” longer than height of fence, terminals should be 2-3” longer. (If on a slope, add the length of the drop to the lower post). Put a post into each hole and pour concrete around it. Check that the post is plumb and aligned with the guide string. Tamp it down to hold the post in position. Leave the concrete about 2” below ground level.
   Caution: The concrete footings must extend below the frost line in areas where freezing of the ground can cause the posts to “heave”. The posts themselves do not have to go below the frost line, however, for proper installation.
   When you have 6 – 8 posts installed, align them so that they appear to be one when viewed from the end of the fence line. Continue in this manner until all fence posts are installed.
3. If the grade is too steep and there will be too much space under the bottom rail of the section, it may be necessary to cut the section in half and use an extra post to reduce the space beneath the section.
4. For Traditional System, sections will proceed from post to post using 4 of the selected rail ends (see Figure 1). Attach brackets as shown, or, if using screwless rail ends, drill 3/8” holes at 46 3/4”, 57 1/4”, and 68 1/4” center to center for 48”, 60”, and 72” fence heights respectively. For 72” heights 2-way (boulevard) bands have been provided for additional horizontal structural support for line posts and Brace Bands for End and Corner Posts (Optional for 60” height). These should be placed at approximately 36” (adjust for appearance). The rails will be level, so adjust the bracket height to take into account any space under the fence due to the slope of the ground. When the top and bottom brackets on a post are installed facing opposite directions, there is no need to use screws into the rails. Screws can be added if desired.
5. For Passby and Retrofit Systems Fence sections will be joined through use of internal sleeves provided (See Figure 2) and fence sections secured to posts through the use of the 1 ½” Tech screws provided (Predrilling may be necessary for some retrofit posts. Use 9/64 drill bit). If rails extend past end vertical wires, the ends of all rails should be cut off allowing verticals to abut and horizontal lines to be continuous (See Figure 2). These fence lines may be continued for as long a distance as the slope will permit
6. For Passby and Retrofit Systems sections will terminate on inside face of terminal posts only, Sections will attach to sides of line posts. For end sections in Retrofit System, remove enough of the ends of the rails next to the terminals to enable use of existing tension bands for added horizontal strength (Paint bands as posts or use new black tension or brace bands) For end sections in Passby System, attach same as Traditional System above (See Figure 1).
7. When slope of ground creates too much space under the bottom rail (as in # 4 above), fence should be terminated and restarted at a line post (See Figure 3). Care should be taken to cut rails in such a way as to permit overlapping of ends, and for securing verticals middle of sections to posts with black ties. Make certain plugs have been inserted into all open ends of rails. After all lines have been completed, black hog rings (not provided) can be used to secure end verticals of each section to each other.
8. Fill in the top of the post holes with dirt and grass so the fence will look like it’s been there for years. Your fence installation is now complete!

Gate Installation:

Once the concrete has set around the gate posts, you may install the gates. Proper installation will result in approximately a 2” space between the gate and each of the gate posts. First, you must assemble the gate using a gate kit as follows:

1. For a single gate, cut a section of fence 6” less than the opening size you want. For a double gate, each section should be cut 5” less than half of the opening.
2. Attach the verticals of the gate by inserting them into the horizontal rails of the section and fastening with two self-drilling screws at each corner. For 72” high gates, brace bands have been provided for additional horizontal support (Optional for 60” height). Add these to the gate heights before insertion into rails. (See Figure 4.)
3. Attach hinges to the gate and the gate post using the self-drilling screws provided. Mount one hinge near the top rail of the gate and the other near the bottom rail to distribute the weight of the gate evenly. When using self-closing hinges, the offset hinge will be on the bottom. The gate should now swing freely.
4. For double drive gates, the drop rod is installed before the latch. Fasten one of the two “guides” to the face of one side of a gate frame near the bottom of the latch side. Place the other guide high enough to ensure ground clearance of the drop rod when the gate is opened. Insert the drop rod through the two guides and adjust them for smooth operation.
5. Position the latch at a convenient height (or as required by local codes) and fasten the latch on the side of the gate. Your done. Enjoy your Jerith fence!